Bagels and Lox Meet Cheesecake at West Virginia’s 1010 Bridge

“In Appalachia, we love smoked trout dip,” says Chef Paul Smith, who won a James Beard award last year for his modern take on the cuisine at 1010 Bridge, his restaurant in Charleston, W.V. Smith felt that he couldn’t serve a simple dip though. He took a look at his menu, saw both trout and salmon, and the wheels started turning. “I started thinking about a twist between bagel and lox and smoked fish dip.” 

The smoked fish cheesecake fits right in with the menu offerings at 1010 Bridge, where Smith describes the focus as “nostalgic dishes that bring you back.” He opened the restaurant in July 2020 and wanted to serve locally loved comfort foods with a twist. “Our bolognese reminds me of growing up in an Italian-American family in the coalfields of West Virginia,” he says. “This dish reminds me of a smoky, citrusy fish dip and feels like home.”

Smith started by creating a crust in which he crushes everything bagel seasoning with panko. He then creates a savory cheesecake filling with cream cheese, lemon zest, egg, and puréed cold-smoked fish (he brines trout and salmon and smokes them in house). Smith bakes the dish for 15 minutes at 325℉ then adds citrus crème fraîche and fish roe to finish it. The roe varies by what’s available seasonally. “We alternate depending on whether we can get trout, salmon, or paddlefish roe,” he says. 

The cheesecake is served in a wedge, and the finishing touches are a salad of greens dressed with caper vinaigrette and sesame lavash. That gives diners everything they need to build a perfect bite. “What we’re trying to do here is educate and have fun,” Smith says. “This dish is both of those things. It’s something everyone has had, but we take those classic flavors and rethink them.”

Amy Cavanaugh is a Chicago-based food and drinks writer.